This Weird Hack Brings Dead Plants Back to Life (Works Like Magic!)

Marzena Rewers (Horticulturist)
February 12, 2025
19 mins read

All of us have been there. You bring home a houseplant filled with life and promise—a vivid, green buddy. You see it flourishing in its new location, giving your house some green peace. A few weeks later, though, you see a drooping leaf, a yellowing stem, a general air of melancholy. That first thrill begins to fade, then shame and uncertainty take center stage. Not to panic; even those of us with the greenest thumbs have a “plant graveyard” tale or two, and I am a crazy plant lady! Alternatively, in my case, a “plant hospital” nook where the questionable cases receive a little further care. Today we will find out how to revive a dying houseplant the right way!

If you’re looking at a depressed-looking houseplant and wondering where you went wrong—what did I do?!” You are not alone, most surely. More importantly, though, it’s usually not too late to start right. Though usually strong, houseplants can be quite sensitive to minute environmental changes. A little too much water, inadequate light, or even a subtle bug problem can rapidly convert a healthy plant into a withering mess.

But inhale deeply before you start to put your leafy companion in the compost heap. This article will lead you through the most often occurring causes of houseplant decline as well as, most significantly, how to revive them, so giving your green friends another shot at life. We will address everything from determining the particular issue—is it overwatering? underwatering? pests? something else entirely? to offering doable, step-by-step remedies you might start right now.

Ready for some plant doctor? Let us begin and return that houseplant to its previous splendor! The resilience of plants with a little bit of care and attention may astound you. Let’s learn this together.

Finding the Issue: Learn to be a Plant Detective.

You have to determine what’s really wrong before you can begin caring for your sick houseplant. The investigative work comes in here! Accurate diagnosis of the problem depends totally on careful observation. Don’t presume you know what’s happening merely by glancing at your plant. Spend some time getting close, then really go over it from top to bottom. Consider yourself a plant Sherlock Holmes searching for hints.

Covering the main areas of concern for houseplants, the following sections will help you to navigate a methodical assessment. For every probable problem, we will discuss the symptoms you might experience, the likely causes of those problems, and diagnostic advice to enable you to identify the offender.

Problems with Watering:

Watering sounds so basic, yet it is the death sentence for so many houseplants. Both overwatering and underwatering can be rather stressful, and occasionally the symptoms seem rather similar.

Overwatering:

Before And After Correcting Water Schedule
Before And After Correcting Water Schedule

A common symptom is yellowing leaves—especially those of the lower leaves, nearest to the soil. In extreme situations, you may also find fragile or mushy stems, leaf drop—leaves falling off even if they are still green—and mildew developing on the surface of the ground. One significant clue of root rot, a common result of overwatering, is a bad, stationary stench emanating from the ground. The ground could feel to the touch always damp.

Potential Source:

Too frequent watering is the most clear-cut reason; it gives the plant more water than it can consume before the ground has an opportunity to somewhat dry out. Other elements can also be involved, including a container lacking drainage holes—a major no-no—poor drainage—water lying in the bottom of the pot—or a thick soil mix retaining too much moisture.

Tips for Diagnosis:

  • The finger test: About two inches below ground level, stick your finger knuckle-deep. Is everything damp and soggy? In such a case, overwatering is quite likely.
  • The Weight Test: Does the pot seem especially weighty given its dimensions? This can point to soggy ground.
  • The Root Check (should one be required) If you believe the plant has root rot, gently remove it from its pot—if it is not too fragile or huge. Review the roots. Are they dark, mushy, and foul-smelling? Good roots should be white or light tan and strong.

Underwatering:

Symptoms: The most often occurring symptom is wilting leaves; however, overwatered plants can also wither too! Search for additional hints as well: Stunted growth, dry, brittle soil pulling away from the pot’s sides, and crispy, brown leaf margins. The plant could seem generally lifeless and uninteresting.

Potential Sources: The main offender is seldom watering. Other contributing elements could be extremely fast-draining soil (such as a cactus mix used for a plant requiring more moisture), a hot and dry environment (which causes water loss via transpiration), or a too-tiny pot for the root system of the plant.

Diagnostic Strategies:

  • Once more, the Finger Test: Plant your finger straight into the ground. Bone dry even several inches down?
  • The Weight Test: Does the pot seem particularly light?
  • When you do water, does it run straight through the pot and out the drainage holes practically immediately? This suggests the soil is so dry it has turned hydrophobic—that is, water-repellent.

Further Reading: If you want to master houseplant watering techniques, check out this comprehensive watering guide.

Light Problems

Plants require their light to be precisely right, much as Goldilocks did. Extreme, either too much or too little, might lead to major issues.

A leaf showing how much light does a Monstera need
A leaf showing how much light does a Monstera need

Too Little Light:

Indices A clear indication is leggy development: the plant will desperately grasp for any available light, stretching and elongating its stems with great voids between the leaves. The leaves can be smaller than usual, and the general hue could be pale green or yellowish (absence of the vivid green of healthy chlorophyll). Another indicator is a plant that should be blooming but is not.

Potential causes could include the plant’s simple placement too far from a window, in a room with a north-facing window (which gets the least amount of light), or something blocking the light—like a structure, tree, or heavy curtains.

Diagnostic Suggestions:

  • Track the Light: Spend some time tracking the plant’s whereabouts over the day. Is it in any direct sunlight at all? Are shadows thrown on the plant for most of the day?
  • Think through the demands of the plant. Study your particular plant species. Can it withstand lower light levels, or does it need brilliant, indirect light?

Too Much Light:

Symptoms: The most evident indication is scorched foliage; brown or white spots will show up on the leaves, particularly on the areas facing the most intense sunlight. Even with moist soil, leaf drop can happen, and the leaves might seem curled or withered. The leaf color generally could seem washed out or faded.

Potential causes include direct, strong sunlight, especially during the hottest part of the day, such as the afternoon sun in a south-facing window. Scorching can also result from a rapid shift in light exposure—that is, by moving a plant from a shaded area to a quite sunny one.

tips for diagnosis:

  • Look at the plant. Spend the warmest hours of the day observing the plant. Are the leaves receiving direct, unscreened sun?
  • Feel the leaves; do they have a heated-to-the-touch quality? This shows they are absorbing too much light and heat.

Insect Infestations

Little unwelcome visitors can wreak havoc on your houseplants by sucking their sap, destroying their leaves, and perhaps causing disease spread.

Among the most often occurring houseplant pests are aphids, mealybugs, spider mites, scale, and fungus gnats. Let me say, I struggled most with mealybugs!

General Symptoms Signs of a pest infestation include slowed development, twisted or broken leaves, sticky residue (honeydew) on the leaves or surrounding surfaces, and—of course—the obvious presence of insects themselves.Let us define them, then?

Aphids

Aphids
Aphids

Little pear-shaped insects, aphids can be green, black, brown, or even pink. Sucking off the plant’s sap, they usually gather on new growth on the underside of leaves.

Look for often-gathered-together, tiny, soft-bodied insects. They could leave behind a honeydew sticky residue.

Treatment Tip: You can usually remove them with a forceful water spray. Neem oil or insecticidal soap could work well for bigger infestations.

Mealy bugs

Often found on the undersides of leaves and in leaf axils—where the leaf joins the stem—these pests resemble tiny cotton balls or white, fuzzy masses.

Look for white, cottony lumps that sometimes lurk in crevices. Honeydew is another thing they create.

Treatment Advice: Mealybugs caused me quite a bit of trouble. They are tenacious! Either use insecticidal soap or dab them with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. Usually, there are repeated treatments required.

Mites, Spider

Almost invisible to the unaided eye, these are microscopic arachnids—related to spiders. In dry conditions particularly, they produce delicate webbing between leaves and stems.

Look for fine webbing; if you examine very closely—with a magnifying glass, if necessary—you may find minute moving dots. Leaves would seem to be speckled or stippled.

Therapy Advice: They detest moisture. Mist your plant often, use a humidifier, or set it on a pebble tray loaded with water to raise humidity around it. Another tool is insecticidal soap or miticides.

Scale

On stems and leaves, scale insects resemble little brown lumps. Often, people mistake them for a plant component.

Look for non-moving, often brown or tan, hard or soft bumps. They might also make honeydew.

Treatment Tip: Soft brush or fingertip gently scrape them off.Use horticultural oil or insecticidal soap for heavy infestations.

Gnats for Fungus

Often observed flying over the ground are these little black flies. Although the adult flies are largely a nuisance, their larvae eat organic debris in the soil and may damage plant roots, particularly in seedlings.

Look for little black flies crawling on the ground or fluttering about the plant.

Treatments Tip: Let the ground dry up more between waterings; the larvae live in moist soil. The adult flies can also be caught with yellow sticky traps or a soil drench including Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis, a bacterium that kills the larvae.

Deficiencies in nutrients

Like humans, plants thrive on a balanced diet of nutrients. They will exhibit symptoms of shortage if they are lacking some vital nutrients.

Conditions & Symptoms: 

Although a typical complaint is fading leaves, the pattern of yellowing can reveal information on which nutrient is deficient. For instance, yellowing of older leaves first can signal a nitrogen deficiency; yellowing between the veins of the leaves (interveinal chlorosis) usually suggests an iron deficiency. Stunted development, thin stems, and little blossoming can also be indications.

Potential Sources:

Lack of fertilizing, depleted soil—that is, dirt devoid of nutrients—or an improper soil pH—that would make it difficult for the plant to absorb nutrients even if they are available in the soil.

Diagnostic Strategies:

  • Examine the Background of Fertilization: When was the last repotting of the plant? Throughout the growing season—spring and summer—have you been routinely fertilizing it? What kind of fertilizer are you using? Maybe it’s better to use an organic fertilizer?
  • Optional Soil Test: A soil test kit will help you to evaluate the soil pH and the amounts of important nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium), enabling a more exact diagnosis.

Environmental Load

Sometimes environmental stress rather than pests, illnesses, or nutrient shortages causes a plant to struggle.

Environmental stress might show up as sudden leaf drop, wilting, browning leaf tips, or an overall deterioration in health.

Potential Origins: Drafts from open windows or air conditioning vents, temperature swings (too near a heat source or a chilly window), low humidity (particularly in winter when heating systems dry up the air), or recent repotting—which can momentarily stress the plant.

Guidelines for Diagnostics:

  • Analyze the site of the plant: Has the plant lately been moved? Is it next to an air conditioner, heat source, or drafty window?
  • Take into account air quality: Is the air somewhat dry? Winter especially makes this more common.
  • Consider recent developments: Have you lately modified the plant’s watering regimen, repotted it, or made any other major care changes?

This thorough diagnostic chapter offers a complete road map for spotting the most often occurring issues compromising houseplants. Building on this basis, the next chapter will offer particular treatment approaches for every problem.

Reviving Your Plant: Acting—Treatment and Recovery

It’s time to act now that, presumably, you have found the fundamental reason your houseplant is unhappy. Keep in mind that, with proper care, many plant issues are quite manageable. Hold on to hope! For every one of the problems we covered throughout the diagnostic stage, this part offers particular therapy plans.

Important: Before you start any treatment, it’s usually a good idea to keep the sick plant away from your other houseplants. This is particularly crucial if you suspect that pests or a contagious disease are causing the problem. This will stop the problem from proliferating.

Fixing Watering Problems

The secret is to let the ground dry out and solve any underlying drainage issues.

Overwatering

  • It may seem obvious, but it’s crucial to stop watering immediately. Water the plant just once the top inch or two of soil feels dry to the touch. The degree of the overwatering will determine whether this takes several days or perhaps a week or more.
  • Improve drainage by:
    • If the pot does not have essential drainage holes, immediately repot the plant into one that does. Long-term plant health cannot be negotiated in this regard. You may want to check another article, which will help you choose the right pot for your plant.
    • Changes the soil: Think about repotting using a well-draining soil mix if the soil is heavy and holds too much moisture. To increase drainage in your usual potting mix, add gritty sand, perlite, and orchid bark. Using a mix of around one-third potting mix, one-third perlite, and one-third orchid bark (or a like mix) is a decent rule of thumb.
    • If you think the plant has root rot—a terrible smell, mushy stems, notable leaf drop—gently take it from its pot. Review the roots closely. Good roots should be strong and with white or light tan. Using clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears, cut away any discolored, mushy, or smelling-bad roots. Repot the plant in fresh, well-draining soil (as above) after pruning.
  • Change the timing of your watering. Once the plant has healed, water just when the top inch or two of soil is dry. Learn your plant; avoid a strict regimen (e.g., “water once a week”). Let the soil moisture guide you.

Underwatering:

Here we want to rehydrate the plant and set a more regular watering schedule.

  • Water the plant thoroughly till the drainage holes run empty. This guarantees moistening of every inch of the soil. At first, severely dry and compacted soil may reject water. You might have to water numerous times, allowing the water to sink in gradually.
  • Think about bottom watering for badly underwatered plants; it can be really successful. Set the pot in a sink or saucer filled with a few inches of water and let the plant soak for thirty to sixty minutes from the bottom. This promotes consistent soil rehydration.
  • Repotting with a mix with more organic matter (such as peat moss or coco coir—but be careful of the environmental issues with peat moss) should be considered if the soil is highly fast-draining and lacks enough moisture.
  • Change your water intake plan. Once more, water in the top inch or two of dry soil. Don’t allow the soil to go totally bone-dry for very long.
  • If the air is really dry, raising humidity around the plant will assist in slowing down its drying out too fast.

Solving Lighting Problems

Too Little Light:

  • Moving the plant to a better spot is the most basic fix. To prevent stunning the plant, progressively let it grow to the higher light level. Start by daily moving it somewhat closer to the light source.
  • Think about a grow light if you lack a brighter spot accessible. Particularly in rooms with little natural light or during winter, grow lights can augment natural light or supply all the light a plant needs. Select a grow light suitable for the kind of plant you have; a decent general-purpose choice is full-spectrum LED lights.
  • “Keep your windows clean”: filthy windows could hinder a great light source.

Too much illumination:

  • Move the plant. Take the plant to somewhere with less strong light. This might be a location far from a south-facing window or one that gets strong, indirect light—filtered through a plant. curtain, for example.
  • If you cannot move the plant, create some shade during the warmest portion of the day. Filtering the sunlight can be accomplished using a sheer curtain, shades, or simply a piece of paper.
  • Gradually acclimate yourself Move a plant from a lower-light to a higher-light setting gradually to prevent scorching of the leaves.

Dealing with Pest Problems

The particular treatment will rely on the kind of insect you are dealing with. Here are some broad rules and particular remedies for the common pests we covered:

Generally speaking, pest control strategies:

  • As said before, isolate the infected plant to stop the pests from proliferating.
  • Small infestations often need for hand removal of the pests. If you’re not uncomfortable, this could call for picking them off with your fingers, wiping them off with a damp towel, or misting them with a powerful stream of water.
  • For many soft-bodied insects (including aphids, mealybugs, and spider mites), insecticidal soap is a somewhat safe and successful therapy. Take great care to closely follow the label’s directions.
  • Another natural insecticide useful against a broad spectrum of pests is neem oil. It also possesses somewhat fungicidal action. Once more, heed the label directions.
  • Refined petroleum chemicals called horticultural oils smother insects. They work well against other pests, mealybugs, and scale.
  • Mealybugs and scale can be immediately dabbed straight with a cotton swab bathed in rubbing alcohol (70% isopropyl).
  • Most insect infestations call for repeated treatments if they are to be totally eliminated. Use persistence!

Target Pest Treatments (Recap and Extension)

  • Aphids: Strong water spray, insecticidal soap, neem oil.
  • Mealybugs: Cotton swabs dipped in rubbing alcohol, insecticidal soap, neem oil, horticultural oil. Since they like to hide, be incredibly diligent and tenacious.
  • Spider Mites: Increase humidity; use vigorous water spray; use insecticidal soap; use neem oil; use miticide (if severe).
  • Scale: Neem oil, horticultural oil, insecticidal soap, manual removal—scrape them off.
  • Fungus Gnats: Yellow sticky traps, Bti (Bacillus thuringiensis) soil drench, let soil dry out more between waterings.

Dealing with nutrient shortages

  • Fertilize: Using a balanced fertilizer will help the plant overcome nutritional shortages most of the time. All three of the key macronutrients—nitrogen (N), phosphorous (P), and potassium (K)—are found in a balanced fertilizer. Search for a fertilizer stamped “complete” or “balanced.”
  • Select the appropriate fertilizer.
    • Liquid Fertilizers: Liquid fertilizers are easy to apply and are quickly absorbed by the plant. For fast correction of shortcomings, they are a wise choice.
    • Nutrients released by slow-release fertilizers spread over time rather slowly. For continual nutrition, they are a good choice.
    • Organic fertilizers—such as compost, worm castings, or fish emulsion—offer a good option for enhancing soil health and delivering a slow, consistent release of nutrients.
  • Follow Instructions: Use the fertilizer label’s directions exactly always. Just as damaging as underfertilizing can be, overfertilizing can be. Generally speaking, fertilize during the active growing season—spring and summer—then cut back or stop fertilizing throughout the winter, when development slows.
  • Think about soil pH: Should the pH of the soil be either too high or too low, the plant might not be able to absorb nutrients even in the presence of the soil. If you believe there is a pH issue, think about measuring the pH using a soil test kit and then adjusting it either with lime to raise pH or sulfur to drop pH.
  • Sometimes I merely repot my plant into a fresh dirt container.

Handling Environmental Stress

  • Find and Remove the Stressor: Finding the stress’s source and, if at all feasible, eradicating it comes first.
  • Writing drafts: Move the plant away from vents for air conditioning and drafty windows and doors.
  • Keep the plant apart from radiators, fireplaces, and chilly windows—heat sources. Try for a steady temperature.
  • Use a humidifier, set the plant on a pebble tray full of water, or cluster plants to raise low humidity around them.
  • Should the plant have been recently repotted, give it some time to acclimate. Until it shows evidence of fresh growth, avoid fertilizing or overwatering.

This chapter offers doable solutions for the typical houseplant difficulties. Combining deliberate treatment with accurate diagnosis will significantly increase your chances of rescuing your failing plants and maintaining their health and happiness.

Prevention: Avoiding Future Issues

Though it would be far better to stop such issues from starting in the first place, successfully revitalizing a dying houseplant is a wonderful experience. Right! Long-term houseplant health and happiness—for your plants as well as for you—depends on a proactive attitude and emphasis on preventative care! Consider it as your leafy pal’s robust immune system-strengthening process.

The good news is that at times, prevention of issues is simpler than their fixing. It primarily involves being vigilant and providing the necessary basic care. Here is a brief selection of key preventative care advice:

Watering Wisely:

  • Probably the most crucial component of houseplant maintenance is watering wisely.
  • Water deeply but seldom, such that the top inch or two of soil dries out between waterings. This promotes robust root development and guards against root rot.
  • Feel the soil; avoid depending just on a set calendar. Before watering, always find the soil wetness with your finger.
  • The secret is drainage: Make sure the drainage holes in your pots help to avoid water building at the bottom.
  • Remember, the most often occurring killer of houseplants is overwatering. When in doubt, underwatering is the side effect to lean on.
  • Particularly for plants sensitive to overwatering or with dense foliage that makes direct soil watering challenging, consider bottom watering.

Offering the appropriate illumination:

  • Research Your Plant: Different light needs apply to different plants. Research your particular plant species to find out whether it requires low, indirect, or strong, direct light.
  • Watch Your House: Watch the light levels in your house all through the day. Generally speaking, south-looking windows get the most light; those facing north get the least.
  • Turn Your Plants Right-Clockwise Regular rotation of your plants will help to prevent them from leaning toward the light source and guarantee enough light on all sides.
  • Tidy your windows! Although it sounds basic, unclean windows can greatly cut the light that gets to your plants.

Preserving a sufficient humidity:

  • Know Your Plant: Many tropical houseplants, particularly in winter when heating systems dry out the air, demand greater humidity levels than are usually found in houses.
  • Boost humidity around your plants in a number of ways:
    • The best approach to increase humidity is by means of a humidifier.
    • Pebble Tray: Plant on a tray covered with stones and water. The water’s evaporating will raise the humidity around the plant. Make sure the pot is not in the water; it is rather sitting on the rocks.
    • Plants grouped together produce a microclimate with more humidity.
    • Misting might offer a little increase in humidity, but it’s not a long-term fix and might not work for every kind of plant. Some fuzzy leaf plants prefer not to be misted.

Appropriately fertilizing:

  • Fertilize often in the spring and summer, when plants are most actively growing.
  • Apply a balanced fertilizer. Unless your plant has particular nutritional requirements, choose a balanced fertilizer (with equal or almost equal levels of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium).
  • Use instructions carefully. Use the fertilizer label’s guidance exactly always. Steer clear of overfertilization!
  • Cut or Eliminate Winter Fertilizer Use While plant development slows down in the fall and winter, cut or stop fertilizing.

Repotting as required:

  • Root-bound plant indicators: When your plant gets root-bound—that is, when the roots are circling the bottom of the pot or developing out of the drainage holes—repot it. Stunted development, fast drying up of the soil following watering, and a top-heavy plant are other symptoms.
  • Select the appropriate pot size. Select a pot for repotting that is only slightly bigger than the last one—between 1 and 2 inches larger in diameter. An excessively large pot might cause root rot by holding too much moisture.
  • Utilize fresh potting mix. Repotting calls for fresh, well-draining potting mix always.

Make sure to checkout Top-Rated Soil Mixes for Indoor Plants (Backed by Experts!)

Regular Pest Inspections:

  • Early on, check your plants for pests even if they seem healthy. Stopping infestations from spiraling out of control depends mostly on early identification.
  • Exercises: Look for any pests or damage on the leaves—top and bottom as well as stems and leaf axils.
  • Limit New Plants: Quarantine Before adding a new plant to your other plants, quarantine it for a few weeks to check it isn’t harboring any pests when you bring it home.

Cutting for Shape and Health:

  • Eliminating any dead, damaged, or yellowing leaves will help the plant look better and stop the spread of illness.
  • Pruning helps to manage the size and form of the plant as well as to promote bushier development. Find out the appropriate methods of pruning for your particular kind of plant.
  • Use sharp, clean scissors or pruning shears always to stop the spread of disease.

Make sure you are placing your green pal in the appropriate area. While some plants will burn their leaves if they receive too much, others prefer a lot of light.

Frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Questions can come up even with the finest of treatment. This FAQ section answers some of the most frequently asked questions and concerns about rejuvenating and tending to houseplants.

After I cure my plant, how long will it take to heal?

This relies on a number of elements, including the type of plant, the degree of the issue, and your speed in intervening. While some plants recover in a few days, others may require weeks or even months. Go slowly and keep up regular treatment. Look for evidence of fresh development; this is the best clue your plant is healing. If you don’t see instant results, don’t get disheartened; plants often take time to acclimate.

Can I rescue a plant suffering from extreme root rot?

The degree of the damage will determine it. Should most of the root system be brown and mushy, recovery prospects are far away. Still, it’s worth trying to rescue the plant if some robust, white roots remain. Cut away all the rotten roots, repot in new, well-draining soil, and give the best care. Though it’s always worth a try, be ready for the likelihood that the plant won’t survive!

For my houseplants, what sort of fertilizer is best?

Not one “best” fertilizer fits every houseplant. Most plants start with a balanced, all-purpose liquid fertilizer—one with either equal or near-equal N-P-K numbers—such as 10-10-10 or 20-20-20. Some plants, nevertheless, have particular nutritional requirements. Flowering plants, for instance, might gain from a fertilizer with more phosphorous (the middle number). Investigate your individual plant species to find out whether it has any unique fertilizer recommendations. For a delayed release of nutrients and enhancement of general soil condition, organic choices include compost tea or worm castings, which are also quite good.

Will my plant require higher humidity? How can I find out?

Your plant may require additional humidity, indicated by several symptoms:

  • Especially in tropical plants, brown leaf tips and edges are a somewhat typical sign of low humidity.
  • Crispy leaves: Those that feel to the touch dry and brittle.
  • Bud drop: Before opening, flower buds dry out and fall off.
  • Stunted development or a dearth of fresh leaves during the growing season characterizes this deficit.
  • Because they flourish in dry environments, a spider mite infestation might be a subtle indicator of low humidity.

If you see these indicators, try putting plants together or using a humidifier or pebble tray to raise humidity.

Is using tap water for my houseplants okay?

That relies on the quality of your tap water. High quantities of chlorine, fluoride, or other minerals found in some tap water could build up in the soil and damage delicate plants. Use filtered, distilled, or rainwater if your tap water is extensively treated. To help some of the chlorine evaporate, you can let tap water hang out in an open container for 24 hours. This will not, however, eliminate fluoride or other minerals. Use a filtered alternative always if you’re not confident about the quality of your tap water.

How can I find out if my plant needs repotting?

The most often occurring indicators that your plant might require repotting are:

  • Roots swirled around the pot’s bottom.
  • Roots arising from the drainage holes.
  • Restricted progress
  • The ground drying off rather rapidly following irrigation
  • The plant is growing top-heavy.

I simply can’t get rid of the pests my plant attracts!

Dealing with ongoing bug infestations might be aggravating, but keep going! These ideas might be of use:

  • Accurately name the pest: Say correctly what the problem is.
  • Treat yourself consistently.
  • Try another approach:
  • Enhance general plant condition:
  • Isolation: quarantine

Sources

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